BMW Tightening Torques [PDF]

Superb 136-page document from BMW showing the tightening torque for every different bolt / screw on your car. It covers generic torques for all BMWs, as well as model specific ones for petrol, diesel... even the V12.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1JGYWCqjPsqSTBWRGZYdFBLS3c

CONTENTS:

• General Instructions
• Engine
• Engine Electrical
• Fuel System
• Radiator
• Exhaust
• Clutch
• Transmissions and Drivetrain
• General Electrical
• Instruments
• Equipment Accessories

GENERAL TORQUES:

M4 8.8 - 2.9 Nm M4 10.9 - 4.1 Nm M4 12.9 - 4.9 Nm	M8x1 8.8 - 26 Nm M8x1 10.9 - 36 Nm M8x1 12.9 - 44 Nm	M14 8.8 - 130 Nm M14 10.9 - 180 Nm M14 12.9 - 220 Nm
M5 8.8 - 5.9 Nm M5 10.9 - 8.3 Nm M5 12.9 - 10.0 Nm	M10 8.8 - 47 Nm M10 10.9 - 66 Nm M10 12.9 - 79 Nm	M14x1.5 8.8 - 143 Nm M14x1.5 10.9 - 200 Nm M14x1.5 12.9 - 240 Nm
M6 8.8 - 9.9 Nm M6 10.9 - 14.0 Nm M6 12.9 - 16.5 Nm	M10x1 8.8 - 54 Nm M10x1 10.9 - 75 Nm M10x1 12.9 - 91 Nm	M16 8.8 - 200 Nm M16 10.9 - 280 Nm M16 12.9 - 340 Nm
M7 8.8 - 14.8 Nm M7 10.9 - 21.3 Nm M7 12.9 - 25.5 Nm	M12 8.8 - 82 Nm M12 10.9 - 115 Nm M12 12.9 - 140 Nm	M16x1.5 8.8 - 216 Nm M16x1.5 10.9 - 303 Nm M16x1.5 12.9 - 364 Nm
M8 8.8 - 24 Nm M8 10.9 - 34 Nm M8 12.9 - 40 Nm	M12x1.5 8.8 - 87 Nm M12x1.5 10.9 - 123 Nm M12x1.5 12.9 - 147 Nm	M18 8.8 - 280 Nm M18 10.9 - 390 Nm M18 12.9 - 470 Nm
		M18x1.5 8.8 - 313 Nm M18x1.5 10.9 - 440 Nm M18x1.5 12.9 - 527 Nm

BMW BUS System Troubleshooting

Interesting and highly informative BMW training manual on troubleshooting the BUS system fitted to cars built from the late '90s through the 2000s. Detailed guides on design, diagnosis and repair of the original BMW CAN-BUS systems.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vIxKdCSqhcQqEKfE_VTRVw7PWJuP6rNE

BMW BUS SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING:

1. Introduction

2. Definitions

3. Controller Area Network (CAN bus):

• Introduction
• CAN bus topology
• Troubleshooting the CAN bus

4. Diagnosis Bus (D-bus):

• Introduction
• D-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the D-bus

5. Information and Body Bus:

• Introduction
• I/K bus topology
• Troubleshooting the I/K bus

6. Peripheral Bus (P-bus):

• Introduction
• P-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the P-bus

7. Motor Bus (M-bus):

• Introduction
• M-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the M-bus

8. Review Questions

All models using Bus System from model year 1991 onwards.

This module discusses:

• Advantages of using bus systems in a vehicle.
• Various bus systems used in most BMW vehicles.
• Operating principles of a serial bus.
• Methods of troubleshooting bus lines using the diagnosis program.
• Distinguishing a correctly operating bus line on an oscilloscope.

Have fun!

BMW DIS v57 User Manual + SSS v32 User Manual [PDF]

DIS v57 User Manual:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vU8q_xrf3ZOAUQjagdpPx_t9kvyq__fg

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SSS v32 User Manual:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=11HU6YZPBURp7E1gr0c8uPdBlGndgI5vV

Modify BMW USB-OBD Cable for 2005 and Later Cars

If you have an older USB-OBD diagnostic cable that works with BMWs up to 2005 [DIS v44 etc.] then it will need modifying to use with later cars and version of DIS / INPA etc. The process it pretty easy.

1. Remove the four screws from the OBD section of the cable using a crosshead-screwdriver.

2. The case will likely be glued together, so pry it open with a flat-screwdriver and remove the circuit-board.

3. Locate pins 7 and 8 on the back of the OBD-plug itself, which you will find bridged by a blob of solder. [Usually the right-side two pins looking at the face of the board with the LED on.]

4. Use a soldering iron to melt the solder between the two pins so they are no longer linked. [A solder-sucking device is useful here, but it can be pulled off onto the soldering-iron quite easily.]

5. Re-assemble circuit-board in casing and replace screws.

The cable will now work 2005 and later BMW cars, including newer models for all diagnostics using this interface, inc. DIS v55, v57, INPA 6.4.3 etc.

The cable will no longer work with BMWs made before 2005 and DIS v44, so it might be worth getting a spare cable to de-solder. The ideal solution is to solder small wires to each pin that run off to a switch mounted in the edge of the casing. cn555ic has done a very good guide on how to do this on E90post.com - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672940.

DIS v57 + INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 Installation + Guide

Download Links [MediaFire]:

BMW INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 + Install Files etc. [1.1GB]

BMW DIS v57 / SSS v32 Installer Files [6.7GB]

**You will need BOTH parts to fully install DIS v57**

You will need a laptop with USB running Windows XP or Windows 7.

You will need a USB-OBD cable optimised for post-2005 BMWs. An older cable can be modified by removing the solder-bridge between OBD pins 7 and 8 - a guide is here.

GUIDE:

Unpacking Files:

• Unpack the 2 .rar files into a new folder.
• Where the contained instruction file mentions unpacking files from CD1 and CD2, all the .rar files for both CDs are contained in the one 6.7GB download.  

Installation:

• If upgrading from DIS v44, install the files into the same folder and overwrite existing files.
• The instructions cover Windows XP, but files for Windows 7 and 64-bit, along with instructions for that are provided in a folder marked OTHER.

Further installation and troubleshooting instructions [getting the virtual machine / network bridge / ports etc. working] can be found in my prior DIS v44 guide: HERE.

BMW F10/F11: Clogged/blocked Washer Pump Filter - EASY FIX / FILTER REMOVAL! [E90/E92/F07/F30 etc.]

Windscreen washer jets not working, but the pump can still be heard OK? Then you have a very common case of clogged filter. Due to the supposed inaccessibility of the bottle on later model BMWs I have read stories of high dealer bills, daunting inner-wing removal and even back-feeding the washer-hose with bleach to gradually unblock the gunged up filter... but before you try this read on, as it is an easy fix after all.

GUIDE:

1. Fully turn the steering to the right to give access behind the driver's front wheel to work. [Removing the wheel will give more access but is not necessary.]

2. Remove the 6 screws holding securing the rear half of the felt wheel-arch liner in place using an 8mm socket. This will allow access without removing the arch-liner completely. Four of the screws are located in the wheel well itself and two are located underneath next to the sill.

3. Remove the plastic 'mud-guard' trim on the outside of the wheel-arch that adjoins the felt arch-liner. This is done by pressing the centre-pin of the 3 plastic clips through the clip and then removing the clips with a panel-popper tool. [It may be possible to do the job without removing this trim piece, as the clips are very hard to get out and prone to breaking, but visibility and access are certainly improved].

4. Peel the felt wheel-arch liner out from the rear lip of the wheel-arch and if possible tuck it behind the wheel. The washer-bottle should now be visible to the rear of the front wheel. It sits in a tight gap between the outer and inner wings of the car body itself and access is very limited. [This is unlike E39, E60 etc. where the bottle sits left-to-right across the rear of the wheel-arch and access if much easier!]

5. Remove the windscreen washer hose from where it enters the pump and move it out of the way.

6. Slide a long flat-screwdriver in between the washer-bottle and the outer wing and prize the pump upwards until the spout is clear of the bottle and the pump can wedged up and out of the way.

7. The clogged filter should now be sitting in the washer-bottle where the spout of the pump fits. Use the flat-screwdriver to prize the filter up and out of the bottle. It should now be removable by hand or using long-nose pliers / tweezers.

8. Clean the gauze filter using water and lightly brush it with a sponge-scourer or stiff brush. [I find an old toothbrush works perfectly.] It is likely clogged with a 'gel' like substance that builds up supposedly due to the use of incorrect washer-fluid as well as dirt from the bottom of the tank if the washer has been run without fluid in for a while, but should clean up pretty easily.

9. Carefully slot the filter back into the washer-bottle and press it back into place using long-nose pliers / flat screwdriver or both, making sure it is fully seated.

10. Slide the pump spout back into the filter / washer-bottle, making sure it is fully seated and rotated to the correct position with the spout for the windscreen-hose pointing to the side of the car.

11. Refit the washer-hose, trim, wheel-arch liner and wheel. [Reverse steps 1-5.]


www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=930107
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737416
http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/120732-f10-windscreen-washer-not-working/
http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/124943-f10-washer-problems/